Restore a Sailboat - December 2017

WelcomeMy old table saw at home died.  I found a nice cast iron top one on Craigslist, only it needed a rehab. New wiring, switch, alignment, cleaning, oiling, casters put on the legs, etc.  You gotta have good working tools to make the pieces to install on the boat.  It has two blade plates, one for a regular blade, another for a dado. I get a dado blade too.  The holidays also stop the work on the boat.  But I make pieces and parts in the garage in evenings and weekends to take to the boat later to install.  Some progress is made –

90. Screws were missing from the junction box for the masthead anemometer, I find three matching screws and install.

91. I acquire an assortment of ring dings and cotter pins as well as fuses which are used in projects regularly.

92. Then I see the hinge pins that hold both hatches on are are held with rusty literally crumbling cotter pins.  I remove the rusty ones and install new stainless cotter pins.  Could you imagine a hatch flying off the boat in a wave and then having a giant hole for subsequent waves to fill the boat?  Yeow.  No longer a concern.

93. The two hanging lockers have carpet clued to the exterior wall.  There not much worse than wet smelly carpet.  So I pull it out, sand the walls, masking tape the area to be painted and put on a coat of paint – white at that. It sounds easy, one of the lockers have shelves in them that had to be removed, and later re-installed. It really brightens up these two caves.

94. The boat was missing cabinetry, one is the head medicine cabinet.  The paint on the fiberglass inside this cabinet is really tired after 42 years.  I sand it down and paint it.

95. Over the 42 years of this boat, various things are mounted to the walls and bulkheads into the mahogany.  Then those things are removed leaving the screw holes.  I get 1/4″ and 3/8″ wood plugs, drill these holes out to size, then insert a plug in each of these holes with a dab of glue. After the glue sets, I chisel off the excess plug, sand it smooth, and coat the plug and surrounding area of each ninety-nine times.  There were 99 holes.  While a 1/4″ circle plug isn’t as perfect as an absolutely smooth wall of mahogany, it looks 99 times better than the Swiss cheese it replaced!

96. The main hatch tipped forward when raised.  We are planning on installing a rigid boomvang later and this hatch will be in the way when the rigid boomvang swings from side to side on tacks and gybes.  I need to rotate it 180-degrees, including the hardware, and have grave concerns on how to mount the hinges on the deck on the other side that is curved in so many directions.  Upon inspection, when they built this boat they put hinge pads on the front and the back around this hatch.  This was one of those “pure gold” moments where everything comes together.  It took about an hour to spin this hatch around and move the hardware.  I was stunned at how easy this project went.  Later wood plugs filled the holes, and some paint had to be applied to cover up where the hardware used to be mounted. It looks like it was built this way when done.
97. The Survey said that electrical wires needed to be secured every 16″ everywhere in the boat.  I  use wire ties and in some places a glue gun from the bow, head, hanging lockers, under the seats, galley, navigation station, under the bunks and under the cockpit.  I do remove old useless wires, found loose wires and re-crimped, removed old wire ties that were cut and not used cleaning things up completely.

The next owner is really going to enjoy this boat.

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