The 5 M's of Bukhara: Mosques, Madrasas, Minarets, Museums and Mausoleums

I have spent the day touring the old city which is huge as was the one in Khiva, But this seems to be even larger. There are seven mosques in the old city, ranging from the 9th century to the 15th. The amount of tile work and the number of colors in which the tiles are painted increases as the centuries unfold. The first color used was a turquoise. Then the blue was added. Eventually there were many colors in the tiles. Ther madrasas were schools where student boys were educated. Most of the madrasas are directly across the street from the mosques. Conntrary to the American impression of Madrasas as the place where terrorists are trained, Madrasas were originally simply schools where young boys are educated. Today there is a single Madrasas for girls.

Last night, Erev Yom Kippur, we were able to slip into the oldest synagogue, a Sephardic one, in Uzbekistan. It was a house converted into a house of prayer. The house had two sides--one for prayers, one for school. In the front were the torahs as is usual. A podium was placed in the middle of the room from which the rabbi recited the prayers. The men who sat in chairs at desks rather than pews, repeated as the rabbi intoned the prayers. Jews have been in Bukhara since the 10th century, long before the Inquisition. They too apparently followed the silk road. Of course we were unable to slip into the side of the building in which the service was going on. A balcony above was set aside for women. We did not go.

I have found that the whole area that we have visited is tolerant.The area was first settled by Persians,then the Zoroastrians, the Romans, the Mongols and then the Russians, first the tsarists and then the Soviets.The city is a combination of Russians and Uzbeks with a sprinkling of all of the other ethnic groups that have traversed the Silk Road.The buildings we see are built on top of older buildings that are built on top of others. The Mongols destroyed almost everything before them, then the Russians tore down everything,then the Soviets began to restore what had been torn down and now with the help of UNESCO a major effort has been underway to restore the antiquity of the area.

My lungs are filled with dust; it is very dry here. I am looking forward to moistening my lips with the vodka that our group has been having before we go to dinner so I will sign off. Tomorrow I will try to find time to write more about this fantastic city.

Filed under: Uzbekistan

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    Carolyn Boiarsky

    " I am an American," but not "Chicago born" like Augie March. Only Chicago aged. I'd like to think that if Henry Louis Gates were to investigate my geneology, he would discover in my past three women who traveled around the globe, chronicling their adventures. Sarah Kemble Knight traveled 112 miles by carriage from Boston to New York in 1704, a journey most women did not embark on alone (and men did so only with some trepidation). In fact, women were only just beginning to exercise their independence in the 1920's when Emily Kimbrough took off with her friend, Cornelia Otis Skinner, to explore Europe. But it is Auntie Mame, transforming herself from a New Yorker to the wife of an Austrian Baron and climbing the Matterhorn, whose mantra I have adopted. "LIFE IS A BANQUET...LIVE!" I began travelling in the 1960's when I traveled around western Europe between graduating from the Univiersity of Pennsylvania and my first job as a statehouse correspondent for UPI (United Press International) in Charleston, West Virginia, which was about as foreign a place as Europe was to someone who grew up in the environs of Philadelphia. Since then, I've also traveled to Kaunas, Lithuania, to teach at Vytautus Magnus University and to Sheffield, England, to present a paper at an engineering conference. I've been to the Alps and seen Auntie Mame's Matterhorn while climbing, by a series of cable cars rather than by foot, toward the peak of Mont Blanc. For 10 years my husband and traveled to unique places: a sheep farm during lambing season in England's Lake Country, a hotel on one of the Barromeo Islands in the middle of Lake Maggiore in Northern Italy, and a cottage in Dun Quin on the Dingle Peninsula which the Irish claim is the last parish before Boston. Between excursions, I'm a professor in the Department of English at Purdue University Calumet in Hammond, Indiana,. My husband passed away recently and, Auntie Mame-style, I am in the process of transforming myself. I've joined a tour to Central Asia and traveled to China to work with the pandas. This year I'm on my way back to Europe--Inreland, England, and France--to present a paper at a Conference and then visit friends. A new adventure. Old friends. Another banquet.

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