Prairie Fire: First Bite
Posted by Carol Mighton Haddix
Sarah Stegner and George Bumbaris have returned to Chicago with the opening this weekend of their second restaurant. Like Prairie Grass
in Northbrook, Prairie Fire on North Clinton features the two chefs'
signature American comfort food prepared with classic French
sensibility and ingredients from local, sustainable farms. From the
multicolored farmer's salad of micro greens, roasted root vegetables
and herb vinaigrette ($8) to the simple, crispy apple tart tatin
($7.50), the food is restrained perfection. A pair of shrimp rolls
($9.50) from the "crispy rolls" portion of the appetizer list, came
with a crackly wrap surrounding perfectly cooked shrimp. The tangy,
slightly peppery dipping sauce paired nicely.
A supersize mound of barbecued brisket ($20) over Yukon gold potato
puree would put any Jewish mother's version to shame. A topping of
mirepoix vegetables gave the dish color and texture, the brothy sauce
gave a hint of sweet barbecue flavor and the meat (from Bill Kurtis's Tallgrass Beef) made a rich, moist mouthful.
A
duck combo plate ($26) skipped the usual
sliced-breast-with-a-confit-leg route in favor of a crisped leg paired
with a duck confit "cake" made of shredded meat. Braised cabbage, a
roasted apple half and a light apple cider sauce left us dreaming of
Normandy. A bottle of Hamacher Pinot Noir ($42) from Oregon enhanced
each entree.
Feeling stuffed, we skipped "Mom's Seasonal Pie,"
a banana cream, but then couldn't resist the double chocolate cake
($7.50) and the apple tart with creme anglaise. So much for willpower.
The cake was a moist dark chocolate wonder with a 1/2-inch layer of
fudgy frosting we kept licking off the fork. For the tart, thin slices
of perfectly cooked apple rested on a thin crust of buttery puff
pastry. Creme anglaise came in a bowl on the side to drizzle (or splash
as we did) over the apples.
Service was genial, quick and
professional. The muted tones of gray covering the large booths and in
the carpet matched the muted converstions around us. While busy, the
room was never loud. While the name Prairie Fire may make you think of
hot spicy food or a menu of charred steaks, here it is more about
cooking finesse than fireworks.
Prairie Fire, 215 N. Clinton St., 312-382-8300.
Tribune photos by Carol Mighton Haddix
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Tags: Chicago, prairie fire, Sarah Stegner
