Chicken, Fennel & Olives With 2011 Domaine Chante Cigale Blanc & DFW Commencement Speech

Chicken, Fennel & Olives With 2011 Domaine Chante Cigale Blanc & DFW Commencement Speech

Maybe you've read or heard David Foster Wallace's 2005 Kenyon College commencement speech. It's quintessential DFW. While usually leery of such 'putting images to words'-type things of this sort, here's one done quite well and worth passing along:

After a surprisingly great time at the Wines of Portugal tasting at Bin 36 downtown on Tuesday, Wednesday was recovery day. A repeat of a favorite meal from February was in order with a grape were starting to sorta like - grenache blanc (never thought that would happen). Don't like it? Don't know it? It's $24 at Binny's right now and worth a shot. Might just change your mind on the cheap.

Chicken thigh meat with fennel, olives, preserved lemon and garlic with thinly sliced potato roast, served with 2011 Domaine Chante Cigale Blanc Châteauneuf-du-Pape ($24 - Binny's). Recipe here. A Thomas Keller recipe from Ad Hoc at Home (page 30). It's great food, cheap food, Frenchy food and food with boatloads of integrated flavors that become more than just the ingredients. Highly recommended.

While the Vieux Télégraphe Blanc (more clairette-foward) was better, it's also more than twice as much. Here's one easier on the wallet, a grenache blanc-forward wonder with solid focus, nothing extraneous and deliciously spicy with this food. Peach skin and tangerine blend with moderately sharp acid nicely woven. Touch of waxy cheese and nuts at times that was entirely welcome, as it came in small, proper doses. Smoked lime and spicy cinnamon blend finish. Just a really nice wine looking to please but it's never pushy about it.

With this food, the acid shot through the food and stopped at the right place, allowing the full flavor of the food and wine to show. Great stuff. Happy stuff.

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    Christo P. Ney

    Love wine. Love it more with food. Having food without wine is like eating in black and white compared to vivid colors. Done right, it takes a meal out of the realm of mere consumption to a place of memory. Wine is made to be drunk with food so let's do it - one pairing at a time. "A meal without wine is like a day without sunshine" - Anthelme Brillat-Savarin

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