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Are Chicago bar dress codes "fashion profiling?"

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Jerry Montanoof checks an ID on Thursday at the entrance of Redhead Piano Bar. Chase Agnello-Dean/Redeye


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For Art Bryan, co-owner of Redhead Piano Bar, the golden rule of dress codes is simple: consistency.

On its Web site, in its ads and on its bright rotating sign, the Gold Coast bar warns patrons that "proper attire" is required, meaning no "tennis shoes, gym shoes, walking shoes, athletic hiking boots, beach sandals, flip-flops, open-toed sandals on men, T-shirts, jerseys or sweatshirts," or ripped or torn jeans, according to its Web site.

Some nights, 25 percent of the people who try to get into Redhead are not properly dressed, Bryan said, and if they decline to borrow from the 40 pairs of shoes and 20 jackets the bar has on hand for such circumstances, they are denied entry. There are no exceptions, Bryan said--not for the socialite in the $300 pair of carefully frayed premium jeans nor for the Bears player in the fashionable sneakers.



"We've never done anything to offend anyone because we're consistent," Bryan said.
The art of the dress code can be tricky--both for bar owners trying to maintain ambience and safety, as well as for bar-goers surprised to discover their casual duds don't fly where they expect them to.

As private businesses, bars can implement any dress code they wish, and there are no city rules requiring they publicly post or officially record their dress code, said Efrat Stein, spokeswoman for the Department of Business Affairs and Consumer Protection.

But as a highly publicized incident last month at the Original Mother's nightclub on Division Street showed, dress codes can cause headaches when the language or enforcement are perceived as discriminatory.

The six black students who were denied entry to Mother's say they were turned away because of their race and not, as the bouncers told them, because their baggy jeans violated the dress code. The students said white friends wearing similarly baggy pants were allowed in, according to news reports. The students, from Washington University in St. Louis, opted not to press charges after Mother's agreed to issue a public apology and have managers at the bar undergo diversity sensitivity and awareness training.

Bars can have any dress code they want as long as they're not discriminating against any protected classes, said Kenneth Gunn, first deputy commissioner at Chicago's Commission on Human Relations, which administers the city's Human Rights Ordinance. "If they decided nobody in black habits can come in, that would be discriminating based on religion."

Of course, nun habits are rarely among bars' banned attire. More commonly, baggy pants, hats and jerseys are on the hit list.

Bar managers say dress codes help maintain an upscale atmosphere.

At 10 Pin, a swanky bowling alley and lounge downtown, the dress code prohibits excessively baggy clothing, ripped jeans, work boots and athletic attire such as sweat pants and sweatsuits, said General Manager Victor Tieri.

"I don't want to see anyone's underwear, and I don't think anyone else does either," Tieri said of the baggy clothes policy.

Some customers appreciate dress codes.

Carlos Hernandez, 22, a server who lives in the Gold Coast, said he feels the clientele where he works went downhill after the restaurant, which he declined to name, got rid of its dress code. People are better mannered when they have to dress nicely, he said. Also, the less affluent the customers, he said, the worse his tips.

Others simply won't patronize bars that have dress codes.

As they stood outside of Lucky Strike, another downtown bowling alley and lounge, Erica Neal and her companions scrutinized a large sign that warned entering patrons: "Dress code strictly enforced."

The prohibited attire, as listed on the sign, includes: athletic wear, sweats or sports jerseys; MC colors (which stands for motorcycle club colors); excessively baggy clothing; sleeveless
T-shirts; plain white T-shirts; construction boots; headgear; chains; and ripped or soiled clothing.

"It's kind of off-putting," said Neal, 27, of Hyde Park. "Basically it says that if you're young, urban and blue collar, you can't come in."

Her husband, Brad Neal, 28, said he thought it was sexist, as the banned attire targeted men.

The group decided not to go in the bar.

"Why take yourself that seriously?" Neal said.

Lucky Strike General Manager Chris Logan wrote in an e-mail that the bar's dress code "ensures guests are in appropriate attire for our upscale lounge atmosphere. It is applied in a fair, professional and even-handed manner."

At VLive, a nightclub in Logan Square, General Manager Rafael Mendoza said it's up to the bouncer's discretion to determine who meets the "hip and trendy" dress code.

Mendoza said the club has avoided having a formal dress code in order to stay flexible.
"It's not necessarily about how they're dressed; it's their attitude," Mendoza said. "If you're dressed sharp and here for the right reason, then come on in."

VLive made headlines last month when a 17-year-old male was fatally shot in the club during a concert. Police say the teen was involved in an altercation, but no one has been charged with his murder, according to news reports. Mendoza declined to comment on the incident, but said the point of the dress code isn't for safety.

At Redhead, which has had a dress code since it opened

16 years ago, enforcement is strict as ever. Bryan credits the dress code with the bar's success, as "when people dress nicely, they act nicely."

"There could be days where we're turning away 100-plus people, but I always see it as a long-term business decision," Bryan said. "You have to stick with what is the image of the place."

Up to code?
Chicago's Human Rights Ordinance protects people against discrimination based on race, color, sex, gender identity, age, religion, disability, national origin, ancestry, sexual orientation, marital status, parental status, military discharge status, or source of income.
The law applies to "public accommodations," which is basically any place that offers services to the public--including bars and nightclubs.

A RedEye review of discrimination complaints filed with the Human Relations Commission found three separate dress-code related complaints over the past three years, all of them claiming race discrimination against nightclubs that prohibited braids in their dress code policy.

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5 Comments

Apres Ski said:

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Each of these places needs to have photos on their websites to teach people what to wear & what's acceptable during their hours of business. You need a score card to figure out what to wear where. However, if you dress like you're going to meet your boss's boss, then you're OK!

Joanie said:

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I'm really surprised there is nowhere for people to find the actual dress code for a certain place. It's called a website, post it up there, live in the now.

Isn't it a little unfair to just be GUESSING when you show up to a place? I mean, I've got adorable sweet open-toed, heeled wedges. I could get rejected from a place for them? That would be straight outta left field.

Apres Ski said:

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Even if there was a dress code, which there was, I still have problems with the two guys switching "identical" clothes . . . and they let the *white* kid in instead. That still smacks of racism.

If they'd told the white kid he couldn't get in after switching clothes with the black kid, I would have agreed with the dress code or the bouncer's decision. But when the let the white kid in, I'm totally against that type of blatant racism. It's one more place to add to the list of places to beware of when going out with friends.

It was still unfair . . . no matter what happened!

rose4ulove said:

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Brandon Frein said:

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Personally, I've never had a problem gaining admittance to a place due to a dress code. This may sound elitist, but it is undoubtedly because I take pride in my appearance. You don't have to be affluent or white-collar (or white, for that matter) to dress well. And frankly, I much prefer not having to look at women in work-out gear and men's disgusting un-pedicured feet when I'm out for the night. If you want to be a slob, that's fine -- just stay home and subject your friends, family and pets to your sloppy ways.

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