Sons of Melman fuel Chicago restaurant renaissance

A new generation of dining entrepreneurs is ushering in a restaurant renaissance in Chicago, and its ranks include the sons of the man who's dominated the industry for nearly 40 years: Richard Melman.

R. J. and Jerrod Melman in June 2008 opened Hub 51 in Chicago's River North neighborhood and last May launched La Grande Orange in Santa Monica, Calif. And they're thinking expansion -- a hallmark of their father's career at Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises Inc., the Chicago-based, $350-million-revenue restaurant idea factory that's spawned 150 eateries since 1971 under nameplates including Maggiano's Little Italy, Shaw's Crab House and Ben Pao.

"The bulk of what we do will be here, even though our dad has covered the territory," Jerrod Melman, 27, says of the duo's plans to open more eateries. "But we think there's still new fun things to do."

If the Melman brothers really want to inherit their father's crown, they're going to have to compete against a host of other restaurant entrepreneurs in town -- many of whom learned the business at the elder Melman's side. Chef Michael Kornick, founder of mk, is one Lettuce alum; chef Scott Harris of the Francesca's chain is another.

Even restaurateurs who never worked for Mr. Melman acknowledge his influence. Billy Dec, whose latest venture, Sunda, opened in February, says he's tapped Mr. Melman for advice. And Rick Bayless recalls that when he and his wife, Deann, opened Frontera Grill in 1987, they borrowed from Mr. Melman's playbook -- particularly on matters like pricing and service. "They set the tone for all that stuff," Mr. Bayless recalls. "We paid close attention to Lettuce."

The new generation will define dining in Chicago, and big bucks will accrue to those who devise winning formulas like the ones Mr. Melman cooked up. Indeed, he made Chicago a center of restaurant innovation, and the new guard's success will determine if the city keeps that status.

Read more at ChicagoBusiness.com