The Roister, Chaotic, with Class

The Roister, Chaotic, with Class

Chaotic. Noisy. Boisterous. Meet the Roister.

I’m not sure what greets you first, the loud music or the open kitchen, but they do complement each other well.

The open kitchen centers the room and if you decide to try the tasting menu, you’ll be seated at the counter as if you were in your own home. For those dining a la carte, there are tables on either side of the kitchen.

Dining at the kitchen counter is certainly playfully interactive and I’m sure worth the price, but I wanted to sit at a table and engage with the menu and not be tied to $85 a person.

To begin, the smoked oysters with garlic butter and breadcrumbs is a great starter, especially for a group. For carbs, try the pipe pasta with clams, topped with green chili ragout that really makes this dish exceptional.

If you’re looking for something to munch on try the chicken liver toast or the aged cheddar rillettes. On the less explorative side of things, there is the option of chicken noodle soup or a wedge salad. Choose what fancies your palate or tickles your fancy.

The menu is meant to be shared, in my opinion. However, if you cringe when your server tells you that, there are some options to choose from. Try the hearth baked lasagna with caramelized onions topped with a tomato gravy. Or how about the maple poached salmon or the pork butt with peas and fried pecans for a little pizzazz.

If you raised your hand at the thought of sharing, there are several larger entrees that are meant to be shared. You can choose from a 32 ounce ribeye, Japanese wagyu beef, a roasted duck or a whole chicken. Our server claimed the chicken was one of the best entrees, so we indulged, in a whole chicken.

The chicken arrives with an entourage. First, a large platter is delivered, with braised chicken on one half and fried on the other. Next up, chicken salad, along with a couple of sauces, including gravy, for a hint of Thanksgiving. It is also accompanied by a veggie, fried sunchokes, to clear your palate in between bites of the various flavors of chicken. Though the chicken arrives big, in terms of size, and definitely takes up space on your table, it still left me wondering just what all the hoopla is over this chicken.

To finish, there are but three desserts. A candy apple, foie gras and cookies and milk. We ordered the cookies and milk, which is milk ice cream topped with crumbled cookies. If you close your eyes, it tastes just like dunking a cookie in milk with every bite.

Throughout the entire Roister experience, the music is loud, playing tunes from multiple genres and mixed playlists. You might hear Kanye, next up, Neil Diamond, followed by Ed Sheeran. I was a fan, but please understand the playlist will go on as well as the noise level, so just embrace it.

There are a few things to note. Gratuity is included, no matter the table size. Reservations are made in the form of tickets, just $20, which is included in your bill. Some of the small plates range from $9 - $20, so you can choose how much you’d like to spend here. Traveling in small groups is the way to go, that way you can hear one another at the table and can still order several items to share.

Toward the end of your meal, consider giving The Office a call, you just might get in.

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